Climbing in 2010

2009 finished list:

2 5.6s (5a)

3 5.7s (5b)

7 5.8s (5c)

9 5.9s (6a)

12 5.10a’s (6a+), one trad route on preplaced gear plus one trad route on TR

6 5.10b’s (6b)

6 5.10c’s (6b+)

6 5.10d’s (6c)

4 5.11a’s (6c+)

4 5.11b’s (6c+)

6 5.11c’s (7a)

4 5.11d’s (7a)

8 5.12a’s (7a+)

4 5.12b’s (7b)

3 5.12c’s (7b+)

3 5.12d’s (7c)

1 5.13a’s (7c+)

8 V0s (5)

5 V1s (6A)

6 V2s (6A+)

8 V3s (6B/C)

5 V4s (6C+)

5 V5s (7A) and one incorrectly labeled problem at whiskey gulch

6 V6s (7A+)

3 V7s (7B)

2 V8s (7B+)

2 V10s (7C+)

5 V? two ungraded problems I got the second ascents of at whiskey gulch and some stuff at Joe’s Valley

Total: 88 new pitches and 49 new boulder problems

Hiked Mt Hyalite and Mt Blackmore,

Learned how to “gear” climb,

2nd place at the Poccatello Pump in Yosemite (5.12 and up) non-local category,

6th place at Youth nationals in Male Junior category,

4th place at Division 1 Youth Championships Male Junior category,

6th place at Division 1 Youth Championships Male Junior category for speed,

2nd place at Big Sky Region Championships Male Junior category,

3rd place at Full Gravity Day 9 Male Open category,

1st place at Spring Fling Male Open category,

15th place at the Tour de Hyalite (last place in male 2nd to last overall, time 4h55s)

2010 Projects:

Qualified 15th out of 28 at the 2010 USA National Open Championships Jan 22nd-23rd – Momentum Climbing Gym (x)

5th place at the Billing’s Dirtfest, Not bad for being the only non-local to compete (x)

6th place (after finals was tied in 4th going into finals) at Spire’s Full Gravity Day 10 – Nov 6th (x)

2 time Spring Fling Mens Open Champion – Spire Climbing Center, April 10th – overall points winner for 2010 (x)

Pocatello Pump – Pocatello, ID, September 18th 2nd overall, 1st in mens Yosemite on-local 579 points! (x)

1st in Male Open at the Lost Horse Climbing Festival September 11th Hamilton, MT (x) – Molly beat me again!

Visit Chestnut (x), Frog Rock (x) , Scorched Earth, Beehive Basin, and Ross Peak crags

Do more “gear” Climbing to learn how to jam and be less scared (x) – still scared!

Push myself in difficulty for sport and bouldering (x) – the project still looms…

Skis???

Note to self: I need a new rope (x) x2 hahaha

Pan-American Championships???- nov/dec – not invited this year (USAC dropped the ball hard) and not able to attend b/c in may actually 😦

Placed 31st out of 45 at the Mammut Gravity Brawl at the summer OR show- august 2nd & 3rd  (x) even dave graham didn’t make it into semi- finals!

Placed 3rd at the Butte Bouldering Bash – August 14th at Homestake pass (x) need to go back and visit some of the other areas this winter

1st place at the Billings Space Rock Jam 2010 Male Open (x) – my first black light competition

Routes:

5.6

Right Side (x)

Skyline Arête

5.6 Crack (x)

Pinnacle Standard (x)

Physical Graffiti (x)

5.7

Jerry’s Variation

Wide Crack

Buck Fever (x)

Johny Vegas (x)

5.8

Batman (x)

Left Side (x) cool short route

Automatic Pilot (x)

The Dagger (x) – i like the normal start better but its still good

Blueberry Special

Jerry’s route

Patagonia Variation

Pinnacle Dihedral

The Ripple

Bombardment (x) – onsight, at cathedral

The Watchtower Standard Route (x) – onsight in the rain

Look Ma, No Hands (x) – Onsight, cool slab at allenspur you don’t really use your hands…

Dancing Bare Naked Ladies (x) – Onsight

Spare Rib (x) – Red Point

The Spiral

The Waltz 3rd pitch

Rambo (x)

Standard Route on the Tower

Zig Zag

Ultraman (x)

??? (x) – 8/9 its ok not as good as the others on the same wall that are all new sloppy slab climbing instead of crimping

5.9

Alto Ray (x) – heady!

Crack of Kabooki (x) – as part of kabooki direct

The Gobbler (x) – used the peenuts that joe gave me, they saved my ass

Lady Fingers (x) great thin fingers crack!

Sport Utilitarian (x) – dont sport climb in mill creek

Ithaca Connection

Mothers Day

Orange Crack

Pineapple Thunderpussy (x) – small belay ledge

Rosebush Crack

Standard Route on Neat Rock (x) – 5 hours for 3 pitches and maybe 200 feet… not my fault

Thing In Between (x)

Blind Black Babies (x)

Rosebush Crack (x)

Clutch Cargo (x)

Frigid Air Buttress (x) grade III?

Straight Shooter (x)

Dream Weaver (x) – really good, too bad its so short must go back to pipestone

Bigwank (x) – offwidth chimney

??? (x) – Amazing blue limestone at the porcelain wall go figure maybe 10a/9+/9??????

??? (x) another great route at the porcelain wall, straight up 9

5.10

??? (x) 2nd go, could be harder but its new so just my opinion 10+, in the foyer at the far end with one hard lock off to easy edges

Thunderbolt and Lightfeet (x) trad, onsight 10d? or 10b depends on the guidebook you use, on par with mushroom people in red rocks but short

Variety Cracks (x) – Onsight, glad I didn’t fall

Twin Crack (x) – flash

Manly Fingertips (x) flash, really tired, cool route

Phil ‘Em up (x) dumb bolting + bolted offwidth

Tigger (x) hard, trad, thin fingers dihedral

No Cowboys (x) onsight after a hard rain storm, with water in the pockets, long approach

Octochicken (x) – 3rd ascent, put up by Joe Manlove, Me, and Liegh Spokas after a trail day

King of the Forest (x) – a button head and slings for anchors what more do you need to know? gear from DMM peenuts to 2.5 ”

The Bad

Fatman (x) – thin pockets

The Canary

Tarantella (x) – great steep line, in the canyon no less

First Best (x) – placing gear this time, instead of pre-placed

The Joker

Point Break

Black Line (x) – by headlamp!

Beetle Juice (x) – 9+/10a/b/c??????

Direct (Beehive)

Fathers Day

Severus (x)

Theoretically (x) – first fall on gear

Brothers in Arms

Too Hot to Tango (x) – hand in horizontal = pissed off bird

Mr. Friendly

Rooter’s (x) – good and long

Schuplatter (x) – varriation of the waltz

Positive Identification (x)

Mistaken Identity (x) – long and classic!

Centerpiece (x) – rumney

Juan Valdez (x) – rumney

Friend (x)

Nightmare on Crude Street (x)

Mushroom People (x) – 10c trad flash!

Atman (x)

Tremor (x)

Pointillist (x) – sketch trad (mixed) onsight

5.11

Bioluminescence

Ignition (x) – flash, soft?

Cut Throat (x) – flash cool and runout! 1 bolt and two pieces stacked in the first 15 feet out of 30

Slab Happy (x) – realllllllyyyyy Soft 10+ at most????

Last of the Wild Ones P1

Sidewinder

The Ugly

Crack of Libido

Boo-Boo Kitty (x) – really good!!! 11c maybe soft 11d

Killer Kitty (x) – onsight contrived…..

Moments Away from Manhood (x) – not my fav at the training wall…

The Send

Just Short of Heaven

The Caboose (x)

Practice Wall (x) – supper good, crux on bolts then mental crux on gear

Jackabite (x) – flash

Crazy Bitch Flake of Death (x) – onsight

??? (x) – flash, slaverywall 11d/12a

Apocalypse Later (x) – onsight

Dog Nuts (x) – 11d flash

Sweet Pain (x) – onsight

Sister of Pain (x) – onsight

The Gambler (x) – flash, finally got the back story and his body has been found Supertopo

Rebel Without a Pause (x) – onsight

Sidewinder (x) – flash

The Lazy Fireman (x) – onsight

Kabooki Direct (x) – Flash, first 11 gear route (mixed), classic line has everything from laybacking to crack to slab to overhang *****

5.12

Soft In the Middle Variation

The Fugitive (x) who cares about 11s on gear right? Lets go straight to the 12s! 2nd go headpoint, thanks to pat for telling me what gear to use

Tree Hugger (x) extension of Ignigtion, flashed the crux (extension)

Little Engine that Could

Crosstown Traffic

Death Camas

Silver Surfer Suit (x) 12b/c/d depending on your height, henry’s beta is the way to go.

Donkey Kong

Lions Den

Byline

Hysterical Realism

Of Mice and Men

The Raven (x) – 10 tries in total over 4 days over the last year, progression for me, major enduro!

Hole in the Bucket

Mr. D’s Wild Ride

Can-Dunne (x) 5.12d+ so hard but when it went not as bad idk the cave wipes me out after few goes…

Cardiac Arête

Main Line

Sapphire

Uff Da (x) – 2nd go, almost onsighted but stupid span move out left got me again :/

NOFX

Smoking Monk (x) – flash not 13a, i think its more like hard 12c or 12d, really pumpy for a short 4 bolt crux but idk

Black Pearl

India Ink (x) -11d/12a harder than Bull In a China Closet, kind of contrived line but it is my first 12 onsight in Montana AKA “home of the original sandbag”!

Sandy Clause (x) – 12c ish, 12d at hardest but no easier than 12b, Steep! Kneebars! and Toe Hooks!

The Great White Behemoth (x) – onsight

Aunt Jimima’s Bizquick Thunderdome (x) – 2nd go should have flashed! dumb slab

Burden of Immortality (x) – beautiful enduro sport

Roller Girls (x) – second go, v6 into 5.10 the extension link up is going to be sweet!

Posiden Adventure (x) – my first 12c flash

Threadfin (x) – first true 12b onsight

Darkside Slab (x) – thumb flapper!

5.13

Oblivious to the Obvious

Lion Style (x) 12d/13a/b??? hard, and it breaks but climbs well 2nd ascent? and first in about 10 years a Brett Jessen line….. 6 tries

Bitch Better Have My Money (x) – “1,300 to be exact. I loved her. She loved coke. Now i’m broke” and now its broke… haha 2nd go

Straw Man – (x) oh so close on the 3rd go, fell from the last hard move before the chains, great day 12 on gear then this 2nd go f the day

Neutral Spirit (x) – Flash!

Ten Pin

Hantavirus (x) – 8a! soft for me, 3rd go, sent while seeping hardcore, i’ve never seen the cave wet before?!!?

Lion Style (x) – 6th go, old Brett Jessen Route that hasn’t seen an ascent in forever, called 12c, unless i reallllly can’t boulder its more like hard hard 12d or reasonable 13a.

Disillusioned Youth

Forbidden Fruit

Deadly Nightshade

“Jeff’s Tombstone Route”

“Franks Tombstone Route”

Isla De Los Locos

Rosy Pussytoes – Ten Sleep, WY

Projects

“The Tombstone Slab”

“The Tombstone Dihedreal”

“Vincent”

“Blueberry Slab”

“2nd Tier of the Waltz south side”

(Anything else Frank/ Kyle/ Jeff bolt at Natural Bridge )

Boulders

V0

Bluntside –  Lost Horse (LH) – (x)

EMF – Whiskey Gulch (x)

Mighty Mouse – LH (x)

Cream – (x) supper good!

Bear Hug (x) – Cody, Compression yeah!

V1

TMP (x) Cascade Creek FA

West Face Traverse – LH (x) flash

The Heuco Problem – (x) flash

Divots – The Desert (x)

Turkey Strangler – The Desert (x) flash, way cool!

V2

Huge Mama (x) – flash

Desperate (x) – flash

Sunshine on a Rainey Day (x) -flash

DIY (x) – flash

The Cornballer – Whiskey Gulch (x) flash

The Seamstress – Whiskey Gulch (x) flash, scary

Spider Sex (x) – Cody, flash

St. Elmo’s Fire (x) Cascade Creek FA

??? – LH (x) flash John Wayne boulder

Dynamo – LH (x) flash

Power Monkey – LH (x) onsight

V2 My Ass- Whiskey Gulch

Mastodon Slab – The Desert (x) onsight thankfully highball

Thugboat – The Desert (x)

V3

Super Sloper (x) – flash

Bad Genes (x) – flash

Joe Cool (x) -flash

??? – LH (x) after comp V3/4?

Yoda – Whiskey Gulch (x)

Crystal Haze – LH (x)

Beautiful People – LH (x)

Cleaver Arête – Yankee Jim

Super Sloper – Joe’s Valley

Sauce – (x)

Meet My Meat – Whiskey Gulch (x) flash

Emphysema traverse Low – Whiskey Gulch (x) – Flash

Deltoids of doom – Whiskey Gultch (x) – onsight

The Still – NoBo’s (x)  Punt #2

Flow Cannon – NoBo’s (x) punt #1 for the day

Dead Arete -NoBo’s (x)

Milk It – NoBo’s (x) highball

V4

The Old Man and His Tennis Shoes (x) – so awkward its classic

Pimpin’ Jeans (x) – flash

Sun In My Eyes (x)

Chit (x) -flash

Lava Lunge Traverse (x) – flash

Cheese Traverse (x) -cody

Up The Latrine (x) – cody

A Classic Montana Sandbag (x) – Cascade Creek FA

The Rail – LH (x) !!! onsight

Momentum – Whiskey Gulch (x)

The Duke – LH (x) !!!!! flash

Unknown – Whiskey Gultch (x)

Positive Contact – Whiskey Gultch (x) – Flash

Unnamed – Yankee Jim (x) – onsight

Ho’s Dyno – NoBo’s (x) flash

The Aristocrat – Trailer Boulders (x) flash

The On-On Tea Room – NoBo’s (x) Flash

Palm Aid – NoBo’s (x) flash – heal hand match outside!!!

Sugar Kain – NoBo’s (x) flash

Lever Action – NoBo’s (x) flash

Pinecone Jubilee – NoBo’s (x)

V5

Self Service (x) – flash

Roll the Dice (x)

Reading Rainbow (x) – flash

Homemade Goodness (x) – flash

Phony Baloney (x) -flash

Hammerhead (x) – flash, FA after break

Zulu Death Mask – LH (x)

CCC – Whiskey Gulch (x) – onsight -v4?

Gadgetry – (x) flash

Fido – (x) flash

The Seamster – Whiskey Gulch (x) ew

The Italian Job – Whiskey Gulch (x)

Sober as Monks – NoBo’s (x) FA

Alien Nation – NoBo’s (x) flash

Lateral Dyno – No Bo’s (x) with original beta

V6

The Dark Side – LH (x) onsight

Lava Lunge (x) – Cascade Creek, flash

Nipple Ripper (x) – Cody

Ra Nights (x) – Cody

Inertia – Whiskey Gulch (x) 2nd go

Marshmallow Door (x) -Cody

Duke Traverse – LH (x) flash after doing the duke

Belayed Reaction – LH (x) hard!

Senile – Whiskey Gultch (x) – 3rd go

“Gordo Project” – Northern Bourbon’s  (x) 2nd ascent

Special Reserve – Northern Bourbon’s (NoBo’s) (x) really cool toe hook move!

I’d Rather Be Climbing Her (x)

Eon Blue Apocalypse (x) – tricky but good

Moby Dick (x) – flash

Maxi Pad (x) – loving the openhanded campus move and the topout!

Nerve Damage (x) 2nd go, highballs don’t scare me anymore…. not sure if thats good or bad

??? (x) – petroglyph boulder

V7

Desparete (x) – left me bloody

Big Joe (x) – flash

Big Boy (x) – Flash

I’d Rather Be Climbing Her Variation (x) – a big move out left.

Spam (x) – 2nd go, took a spooky fall from the top out on my first go when my heel popped thanks for the spot Jeff.

Baby Joe – Yankee Jim

Magma Man (x) – cascade creek

Lewistown Pharmacy (x) – Cody, WY

Coke Twitch (x) – Cody

Fe Fi Fo Fum – Whiskey Gulch (x)

Fetus Raper – Lost Horse (x) traverse SDS on opposing gastons, greasy

Spread ‘Em Stand – Lost Horse (x)

South Face – Lost Horse (x) Flash – v7 in the guide, soft??? fletcher flashed too

Maxim – (x) flash, hardest flash to date, took the obvious line don’t know if its easier than graded but whatever

Hang Like a Monkey – Yankee Jim

Caught In the Act – Whiskey Gulch

Flush – Whiskey Gulch (x) – sorry Ryan but I really didn’t like this one that much, it ate my fingers…

The Popes Penis – Whiskey Gulch (x) – 3rd go, thanks Homer

V8

Cradle and All – Lost Horse (LH) (x)

Ahona Verdugo (x) – Cody,WY

Carpenter Crack – Yankee Jim

Dopeman – (x) about an hour of work or so, “Thud Thud Whoosh” hahaha

V9

Hooters – i’ve never had a knuckle hurt from crimping before, that thing so so small its more like a 1/8 pad

Hookers In Training – Yankee Jim

Team Effort – Joe’s Valley

Tuna Juice – Whiskey Gulch (x) – tall man beta maybe doesn’t even qualify for v9 maybe v7/8 idk, not v10, doesn’t come close to beyond life

Arthritis – Whiskey Gulch (x) – 4th go, kind of dumb but keeps you interested

V10

Negro Negro – I will be back and I will climb this, so good

Beyond Life – Joe’s Valley

Jitterbug Perfume – Joe’s Valley

La Dolce Vita – Whiskey Gulch (x) – 5th go from the new modern start, crossed on the start hold and first hold. the original start is apparently matched on the furthest left crimp!

V11

GhostKing- Joe’s Valley

Ice

WI 3

Fat Chance – (x) first lead on ice

WI 4

Thin Chance – my first pitch of ice, TR

Other

Whatever Ryan and Erik show me at Whiskey thats not in the guide book (x) its so much more fun to me to explore boulders than routes, but I still like route climbing better haha

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