Motivating in Laradise

This being my first summer in Laramie there are a lot of things pulling at my motivation right now; new places. and beautiful routes, some can you only find off the beaten path. In no determinate order these are the things in the back of my mind right now, the list seemed to grow with every time I went climbing this last week or two.

  • Wild Iris – It’s a mere 3.5 hours away (that’s a solid 1.5 hours closer than Ten Sleep was to Bozeman and I still made it to Ten Sleep 7 times in one summer!)
    • Throwin’ the Houlihan 5.14a – I have it down to one move, enough said!
  • Pretty Girls With Long Knives 5.12b – a stunner of a layback crack that I need to go back and lead
  • Son of A Wanted Man 5.13c – I tried this with Pat Kingsbury last fall and did all the moves, but it has too wait for some cooler temps of the fall.
  • El Dakota – A rad newish bouldering area, still lots to be cleaned and climbed
    • The Hunter V12 – did all the moves to the lip, except the crux deadpoint, yesterday, this is one of the better looking boulders in a forest of good looking boulders
  • Cumulus V10? – my spring project after returning from Yosemite but it got too hot for these vertical crimps before I could finish it off.
  • Neverland – for those in the know, this place gets a lot of talking up
  • The Green Valley – a hidden Vedauwoo valley supposed to have the best V6 in the voo.
  • Arch Stanton 5.11d – sandbaggery and bolts you can’t reach from the climb??? PK and I looked at it and bailed but it begs to get climbed.
  • Albany, WY – a new new bouldering area in the snowy range, vedauwoo rock for the most part but heavily glaciated.

Throwin’ The Houlihan is at the top of the list right now, what I call the bird beak dyno is the move that is shutting my down when I start from the ground, but when I stick that move, with luck, I’ll be taking it to the top. I’m pretty excited to go back in two weeks and put that down for the first of the grade for me.

My first time to the boulders of El Dakota was yesterday, and I was very impressed, but the hike is such that you need a whole day to really get a good session in. So I may have to wait to go back after I’ve got my fill of the Iris for the year.

Albany is a great after work spot, not too much hiking to the boulders and close enough that you get a good amount of work done in a couple hours. The only drawback right now is the hordes of mosquitoes that have nothing else to feed upon than you.

Pretty Girls With Long Knives maybe my after work project for the time being because the bugs weren’t bad over there and I think I should be able to do this one quickly for a trad climb. I went out on friday and TRed the line with Bart, Robert, and Julian and I only got shut down by the short section of flair that those three all cruised. This has to be one of the longest routes in Vedauwoo i’ve seen, and would be a good one for me to do for my first trad 5.12 in the Voo.

Most everything else on the list needs cooler temps or for some of the other things of higher priority to get finished off. With that being said though its a pretty fluid list. I only tried Pretty Girls on Friday, so who knows what I’ll get excited about next time I go climbing.

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This entry was posted in Bouldering, el dakota, Vedauwoo, Wild Iris, Wyoming. Bookmark the permalink.

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