Setting,Travel, Family, and some Climbing

My trip to Ten Sleep with Joanna turned out to be a bit of a bust. We got two decient days of climbing in and then it rained for a day straight and we had to bounce back to Bozo early, but we were able to make up for it by getting a nice day out at the Bozeman Pass. Then I went straight to work stripping the walls for The Big Sky SCS Youth Regional Championships. Jeff, Aaron, John, Loren, Walter, and myself each put in over 30 hours in three days setting the 14 routes for the kids. Overall I think we did very well with the setting, I received multiple comments on the quality of the routes from kids and parents. We had a few routes harder than they should have been and a few that could have been harder, but that’s how it goes, the kids always find a way to amaze you.

I planned my annual trip back home to New Hampshire shortly after regionals. So with time running out for both of us Pat and I headed out to the Cube the day after Regionals. The weather turned out to be really nice, but the ticks were out in force! After refining the last few moves of the top out, I finally made it past the crux of Roller Girls and was able to send Forbidden Fruit (13b). And then to no surprise Pat sent a few goes later. Pat really buckled down the winter and trained inside the whole time, he’s made incredible gains over the winter and it shows as this was his second 13 and first 13b.

After a well deserved rest day I left for NH just in time to land in the middle of two weeks of straight rain and drizzle. A week into my trip the weather started cooperating and the sun came out raising the temperature from wet, comfy 70s to hot and humid 90s. Despite the wettest conditions I’ve ever encountered at Rumney I was able to make it out for four days. I made every day count and had the most productive trip to Rumney I’ve had since I moved out to Bozeman two years ago.

My first day out I meet up with an old friend Rob and went to see what was dry, fortunately I was able to send Big Kahuna (12d) despite not having a warm up at all (everything else was wet).  On Sunday I went back with a new friend Jared and climbed a very nice slab, Groupie Fantasy(11c), and a bolter problem called The Caged(12d), I’ve looked at for years. I had forgotten how crowded Rumney is on the weekends with regular crews from Boston and from Quebec in town. I wasn’t able to hop on the invisioned project of the trip TABDITO, because it was one of the few 13s dry and thus had people on it all day. Then on Wednesday, on what I thought was going to be my last day out, I headed up with  a crew from Vertical Dreams (Lee, Lilly, James, and Rob) and ended up meeting another old friend Emile who I hadn’t seen in several years. Emile has gotten much stronger in the mean time and was able to spray me down with great beta for Cote d’Azure (13b), James’ early summer project. After James and Lee left early Rob and I worked on Bottom Feeder (13a) between watching Emile take attempts on Dodge the Lemons(13d). At the end of the day I finished up the classic Technosurfing (12b), that I almost onsighted several years ago and never came back to.

Lee on Big Kahuna

Emile on Dodge... 13d

Then after finding out that I would sadly not be able to go see my Great Aunt Maddie in Maine because everyone else in her retirement home was sick, I found a partner and headed back up to Rumney to work on Cote d’Azure with James. Originally I wasn’t too psyched on the line because it involved a scrunchy dropknee stem move into an undercling to intro into the crux. When we returned the second day I found I could do that move much easier than the day before and was stoked on a first try one-hang for the day. The conditions were pretty poor but I was able to put two more tries in and fell at the crux bump move each time. And then on my final try for the day I sent, by trying to do several small bumps instead of one large bump at the crux and then got to enjoy an almost no hands rest before the pumpy 12a top out. (I just found out that James sent Cote d’Azure in similar conditions that I sent it in. Way to finish up the summer proj Otey!).

Besides the climbing I didn’t do too much while at home. I started running again (ugh!) to train for a 100 mile backpacking trip in the Wind River Mountains I got roped into with my roommate Chris at the end of July.

As always It was great spending time with my parents, having home cooked meals, and generally relaxing for a little while amidst the green of the trees and all the biting insects, okay maybe not the biting insects.

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