The 1-6-3 Rule

Its that time of the semester again and I’m going through 3 exams in a week, I know it happens 3 times a semester, every semester, but it never really gets any easier. To top it off I’ve been planning my training routine for the next 14 weeks. To do that I think I spent as much or more time reading online articles about climbing as studying for my Physics 222 exam I had on Monday.

The best thing I think I found whilst surfing several dozen blogs, Pub Med, and various climbing specific training/coaching websites was The 1-6-3 Rule. It can be applied to anything so its more of a life rule, thats probably why I liked it so much.

“The general gist is this: Out of every ten workouts, one of them will feel great. Six of them will be passable, but difficult – nothing special. Three of them will make you reconsider why you ever started training in the first place. These three are the root of most training plans’ demise. These are the three you absolutely must fight your way through.”

The Elemental Training Center

Lately I seem to be in the lower side of the 60% but as always statistics prevails and throws in the random good day that makes it all passable. I managed to make it out to The Cave with Leigh on Saturday before the weather converged on Bozeman. We worked out some easier beta for the start of Weapons of Mass Destruction for Leigh. It lies between the start for Weapons and Kundun on underclings, sidepulls, and a key toe hook. Its a lot less reachy than the original start and worked a ton better for Leigh.

I started working on Kundun in between belaying Leigh on Weapons. I figured out the moves pretty quickly but linking them proved almost impossible for me, after 6 tries I barely made it to the 4th bolt on my best attempt. Hopefully I can get back out there before the season is over and manage to climb something this fall, and I wont forget to bring a brush this time too! Here’s to the 1 day out of 10 that reminds us all why we come back to this sport year after year.

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